5 Takeaways in Our Return to the Camino

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5 Takeaways in Our Return to the Camino

We’ve never worked harder in our lives trying to make this second Camino work. In just 72 hours we, intrepid travelers, have experienced one challenge after another as we make our way through the Portuguese Camino during this new world of COVID. Yet, as we settled in at an outdoor restaurant in Oporto, Portugal and raised our glasses of Albariño wine in a toast, we were grateful to have made it this far. Here are 5 takeaways from our odyssey:

1. People are traveling with a vengeance. Sure it’s the summer holidays but the airports in Los Angeles, Dallas-Ft. Worth and Madrid were jam packed with travelers heading everywhere. People are hell bent on making up for lost time during last year’s lockdowns.

2. COVID Travel Restrictions are confusing. As we make our way from airport to airport I am reminded of the old line from the movies where the Gestapo officer leers at the traveler’s paperwork and utters the dreaded words, “ I see your paperwork is NOT in order.” Ouch. While the airlines will not permit foreign travel without the destination country’s seal of approval-a reference or vector code (Use Verifly or Sherpa Apps), we note, for example, our vaccination records seem to carry little weight in Europe.

3. Most foreign airport and immigration officials are looking for a a 48 hour antigen or 72 hour PCR COVID test result. We have seen a number of disappointed travelers turned away at the boarding gate for not being in sync with the requirements. Because we missed our flight in LA and lost one day in the process, every check point has been a nerve wracking, heart pounding experience. We’ve learned which bureaucrats to negotiate with and which ones to avoid.

4. Just when you think it’s over. Imagine, after 72 hours making it all the way past those dozens of grumpy officials at the various airports in your own country and Europe only to be informed by the desk clerk, Fernando, at your iconic Portuguese hotel that your 48 hour antigen test has expired. In ugly American tourist mode, I pounded the desk, “ But we’re both NEGATIVE…we’ve been vaccinated…we have no symptoms.”

“So sorry Mr. Strange but my country changed the law this week.”

However, all was not lost. Fernando apologized profusely before pulling out a pair of ‘rapid tests’ (2 Euros each) to which we eagerly submitted.

“Just like a pregnancy test,” the receptionist winked and then upgraded our room for the inconvenience. We fist-bumped Fernando as the tests turned out negative. Please note, some restaurants can turn you away if you cannot produce your COVID paperwork.

5. Oh yes, I almost forgot—the Camino. This is the card up our sleeve. Say ‘Camino’ and even the visage of the coldest bureaucrat will be replaced with a smile as he/she waves you through one line or another while uttering “Buen Camino!”

“Hey,” I whispered to my wife, “we’re getting pretty good at this.”


  1. Jane Hackett Backus says:

    Journey on, brave ones…this time, you carry our hopes that the spirit of Camino is stronger than any deterrent that our COVID-weary world has to toss your way. Be well, be strong, be healthy and know you both are in our prayers!

  2. This is going to be quite a trip!

    Good luck and stay safe!

  3. Petro says:

    Amazing how well you’ve been able to navigate the chaos! Thank you for sharing – I am already worried about my trip to Europe in November!

  4. Angelita Teyssendier says:

    Nerve racking ordeal “COVID way”…GOD help the wayfarers!!!

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